Covington adventure travelers Valerie and Kyle have visited all seven continents, including African expeditions in South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia. For many years, gorilla trekking was on their bucket list so this year, to celebrate their anniversary, they decided to return to the Dark Continent to visit the mountain gorillas of Rwanda. I know you’ll enjoy their Travelers Tale.

Fewer than 650 wild mountain gorillas survive in the wild today and we’ve always wanted to have the experience of seeing them in their natural habitat. They are found in the Virunga volcanos region of Rwanda or Uganda’s Bwindi National Park. We decided to do our gorilla trekking in Rwanda because it’s much easier to reach the camps there, although the permit prices are considerably higher than in Uganda.

Rwanda is a long way from Virginia! Our flights into Kigali, Rwanda took around 20 hours. We stayed overnight in the city and the next day were driven about three hours west to our mountain lodge by our driver, Charles. He accompanied us throughout our time in Rwanda and was a wonderful ambassador for the country, providing cultural insights and gracious hospitality.

The drive to the lodge was much more beautiful than we expected. Terraced farmlands spilled down the hillsides. Small towns were randomly nestled into the rural landscape revealing a rustic yet seemingly uncomplicated way of life. We stopped at the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre for a sobering lesson on the 1994 ethnic violence that murdered up to a million Tutsis. It is a reminder of how far Rwanda has come since those tragic times.

Virunga Lodge

Virunga Lodge is a luxury lodge located on the edge of the forest at 2,200 meters altitude, overlooking two inactive volcanos, farmland, and two lakes. The views of the distinctive volcano peaks shrouded in the mist were stunning! We arrived mid-afternoon and were immediately drawn to taking untold numbers of photos of the incredible views on all sides. Our meals at Virunga were completely delicious, with local farm-to-table ingredients and produce, including fresh avocados from trees on site.

The lodge has 10 luxury bandas (free-standing units). Each has a large bedroom area with a fireplace in the room to ward off the chill of the night air, which we used every evening, even in late May. A private terrace overlooks the volcanos or the twin lakes and is a great place for a glass of wine in the evening. Ensuite bathrooms have double vanities with an almost panoramic view, plus all modern conveniences.

Visiting the Mountain Gorillas

The day had finally come, and we were filled with excitement and anticipation. The nearby Volcanos National Park has about 10 mountain gorilla families that are socialized. They are not tame by any means but are used to humans being nearby. Only eight people at a time can visit a gorilla family for a maximum of one hour per day.

Mountain gorillas are completely wild and free to roam the jungle at will, although the guides keep tabs on where they are. The guides assign you to a gorilla family based on your physical ability and where each family is at any given time. You can request an easier, steeper, or longer hike if you want.

Virunga Lodge is about an hour drive from the park, so we left there about 6 am. There are lodges closer which require booking a year in advance to get a room, although we loved Virunga Lodge. When we got to Volcanos National Park, we were put into groups and given instructions. Staring and pointing at the gorillas is discouraged, as they can interpret that as a sign of aggression. If a gorilla gets aggressive, we were told to look down, crouch down, and never run.

You can hire a porter to carry your camera and backpack and they walk right alongside you, offering help on any steep parts. You need hiking boots and should wear layers, including long sleeves and pants to protect from the sun, bugs, and stinging nettles. Most people use “gators” that fit over your shoes to protect from stinging nettles and briars. Charles was kind enough to loan us some before our trek.

Led by our machete-wielding guide, we forged through the dense forest, with few signs of old paths or trails. The gorillas move wherever they want, and the lush vegetation grows quickly to hide any previous tracks. The hike was not terribly strenuous and the temperature was comfortable with no rain.

After walking for about an hour and a half, our guide quietly gave a signal that we found the family! Our heartbeats quickened at the thought. The first glimpse of dark thick fur against the green foliage was unlike anything we had ever experienced. It was a family of 13 mountain gorillas with one dominant male – the magnificent silverback, undisputed leader and protector. There were several mothers and adolescents grooming themselves and each other, plus two adorably furry babies who tumbled and played all around the clearing.

These powerful, wild, and rare animals were close enough to touch as we quietly observed their world. Their deep brown eyes seemed to express sorrow at their endangered status, yet this family appeared happy and healthy. We followed them as they slowly moved from one area to another, eating leaves and, at times, gazing at us with a questioning look. Although it was easy to take incredible close-up photos, we often just sat and observed their rituals and movements, peering into their emotions and obvious intelligence. For us, this was one of the most moving wildlife experiences in Africa, if not the world.

The next day, we returned to the same park entrance to trek rare and endangered golden monkeys. The golden monkeys live amongst towering bamboo trees and are more active than gorillas, jumping from tree to tree and to the ground. A crown of thick golden fur sits just above their bright yellow eyes giving them an exotic yet almost teddy bear appearance. Although it was pouring rain that day, we blended into a troop of about 20 beautiful monkeys who seemed to regard us as one of their own.

Goodbye Rwanda, Hello Seychelles

After our third night in the lovely Virunga Lodge, Charles drove us back to the Kigali airport and we flew to Seychelles for a week of tropical relaxation. The water was incredibly beautiful, we went kayaking and saw giant sea turtles and land tortoises. It was paradise – a luxurious ending to our once-in-a-lifetime gorilla adventure.

Mountain gorilla trekking in Rwanda was definitely a bucket list experience – one that we will never forget and highly recommend.

Many thanks to Valerie and Kyle for sharing their fabulous mountain gorilla trekking experience. If this is on your bucket list, too, talk to your Covington adventure advisor to plan your own amazing quest.

All photos belong to Valerie and Kyle. Do not use without permission.