When I stepped out of the plane in Kirkenes, Norway, the -30°C Arctic air stung my face like a hundred bee stings. At 12:00 noon, we were already halfway through the four hours of daylight typical for early February, but an overcast of a soft grey haze took all the edges away. The only thing sharp was the biting wind. What was I thinking, coming to the top of the world in February?

The main impetus for my trip was hunting the northern lights and my best opportunity to see them was to get as close to the magnetic north pole as practical. Since I don’t have the scientific acumen or the budget to launch a personal pole expedition, I opted for the comfort of Hurtigruten’s MS Midnatsol to sail southbound from Kirkenes to Bergen, Norway. Since 1893, Hurtigruten has supplied ferry services for mail, cargo, passengers and later cars, linking the coastal communities along the rugged Norwegian coastline. In the late 1900s, new ships added panoramic lounges and passenger cabins for vacation travelers.

Life Onboard

Hurtigruten is an expedition operation and thus offers a unique cruise experience. Life onboard is an experience in itself. As you sail along the dramatic Norwegian coastline, gazing out on majestic fjords and quaint coastal villages, the days take on a relaxed rhythm. Mornings start with an hearty Norwegian breakfast spread in the dining hall, fueling you up for adventure. You can spend mornings up on deck, breathing in the fresh sea air as you watch the passing scenery. The ships make frequent stops at small ports, allowing you to hop off and explore charming coastal towns. You’ll return to the ship for lunch, with Norwegian specialties like fish soup and open-faced sandwiches.

Afternoons are for gazing out the panoramic windows at the coastal views in the lounge, or joining informative lectures about Norway’s nature, culture and history. There are plenty of quiet seating areas throughout the ship. Quiet is the operative word, as it seems silent reflection is the central shipboard activity as the stunning scenery of Norway slides by. I also saw plenty of reading and knitting. The free Wi-Fi service and the computer center was an unexpected pleasure that was popular with many guests. Periodically, I claimed a comfortable and scenic workspace in the adjacent library or lounge. All in all, the afternoons were pretty calm, although for a waker-upper, I did enjoy a dip in the Arctic Pool and a very hot sauna afterward.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

Because of the sub-zero temperature, it was difficult to spend long periods of time outside, but the breathtaking, snow-covered fjords and dramatic photo opportunities kept me making repeated trips outside to the promenade deck to take in the magnificent views. When the ship crossed the Arctic Circle, passengers were called to the upper deck to participate in a Hurtigruten tradition – swallowing a spoonful of cod liver oil which, according to legend, is the secret to Norwegian strength and long life. Then we all toasted with Prosecco as we passed the Arctic Circle monument standing on the small island of Vikingen in the Norwegian Sea.

Evenings center around sumptuous three-course dinners, followed by lively entertainment in the piano lounge. As you sail, you feel a sense of wonder at the majestic Norwegian landscapes and spirit of adventure. The days onboard a Hurtigruten ship pass gently by, each one full of scenic cruising, cultural discovery, and moments to cherish.

Shore Excursions

Hurtigruten is a working ship line, so coastal port calls are scheduled for the movement of cargo, more than passenger entertainment. Stops may be only 15 – 30 minutes in length or might be at 1:00 a.m.

I disembarked at several of the longer stops to explore Norway’s charming coastal towns. Some of my favorites were Hammerfest (the northernmost town the world), Tromso (the Arctic Cathedral), Harstad (medieval and Viking history) and Trondheim (cathedral and architecture). I took one overland excursion, disembarking at one port and rejoining the ship at the next port. Exactly as the motorcoach crossed a huge bridge, the Midnatsol sailed underneath. Passengers waved enthusiastically from the deck and the captain sounded the horn. That was perfect timing and quite a kick! (Pretty sure it was planned that way.) Unfortunately, my midnight northern light-hunting snowmobile trip in Mehamn, Norway was canceled due to extreme weather conditions. I was seriously disappointed but as it turned out, the aurora came to me! I got to see the northern lights dance across the sky from the ship and it was a huge thrill!

Northern Lights Promise

A winter Norwegian coastal voyage with Hurtigruten is unique, spectacular and cold! Sailing north of the Arctic Circle, you have a good chance of seeing the northern lights, which is a big draw for many guests. In fact, Hurtigruten offers a Northern Lights Promise – if you sail on an 11-night winter voyage and do not see the northern lights, Hurtigruten will give you a free 6 or 7 day Classic Voyage the year after!

If you would like to experience the Arctic with Hurtigruten and very likely tick seeing the northern lights off of your bucket list, contact your Covington vacation advisor then pack your warmest socks and polar jacket!