Todos Santos is a palm-fringed oasis in the desert of Los Cabos, sitting between the Pacific and the imposing Sierra de la Laguna. It has been designated a “pueblo mágico” (or magical village) by the Mexican government because of its cultural richness and incredible beauty.

Los Cabos, which means “the capes,” is the southern tip of the Mexican state of Baja California Sur (BCS). It’s a peninsula surrounded by the Sea of Cortéz, aka the Gulf of California to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Most of the interior of Los Cabos remains an untamed and seemingly inhospitable desert, but 18th-century Jesuits developed a string of missions that became centers of community along the Baja Peninsula. The Nuestra Senora de Pilar de la Paz mission was founded in 1723 in what became charming Todos Santos.

The old mission town has become somewhat of a magnet to surfers, artists and New Age thinking – although it remains only 5,000 residents. The unique vibe of Todos Santos is a mixture of old world charm and eclectic artistry. Over a dozen art galleries in this sleepy little town offer art for sale and many public buildings have fun and creative art on display just to enjoy.

The restaurant quality almost seems disproportionate to the size of this little town, but that’s another of its unique features. One of the best – Travel + Leisure even said so –  is Café Santa Fé which serves up authentic Italian flavors in a 150+ year old building.  Caffé Todos Santos is a breakfast favorite and the place to be if you hope to run into local artists. They bake fabulous breads onsite and serve with omelets, fruit and traditional Mexican breakfast favorites. You can also dine in a gallery among the art at the Galeria de Todos Santos.

Another funky landmark in Todos Santos is the Hotel California (of Eagles fame). There is some debate as to whether the small hotel is the hotel, but it is definitely worth a visit. Its 11 rooms are individually and imaginatively decorated and it has a very nice shop – really more of a bazaar – filled with interesting trinkets. There is an intimate bar and a shady courtyard for al fresco dining. The kitchen turns out dynamite renditions of Mexican staples like fish tacos and quesadillas, along with creative and exotic dishes that focus on organic, locally raised ingredients.

The main plaza of Todos Santos is the centrum of the historic district, flanked by the mission church (c. 1747) and the restored Teatro Márquez de Leon theater where many cultural events are held. Throughout the town, independent boutique shops sell local arts and crafts, tequila, leather goods, ceramic pottery and woven blankets.

There are about a half dozen beaches in the Todos Santos vicinity. Some are popular with surfers for their strong surf breaks; others are favorites for sunning, strolling or surf fishing. None of the beaches have life guards or services and the waves can be hazardous, so be careful. The beaches are isolated and beautiful. You might see sea lion rookeries, dolphins or whales (winter), and no other footprints but your own.

In Baja they say, “Nothing bad ever happens in Todos Santos.” This really refers to the village’s uncanny hurricane luck, but it seems to be true in other respects. It’s an easy 45-minute drive from the tourist center of Cabo San Lucas on a new four lane highway, but a world away in pace and vibe. Go there for a day, a weekend or even longer, but don’t miss this gem of Los Cabos.

For questions or help planning a trip to Los Cabos, please contact the experienced vacation advisors at Covington Travel.